Profiling Istanbul: Cengelkoy, a town at the bend of the Istanbul Strait

Across the curve of Ortakoy lies a serene yet lively cove by the name of Cengelkoy. With its many historical monuments and wooden mansions perched amidst trees, dotting its waterfront, or woven into its beautiful landscape, this picturesque coastal village is a charming mix of both old and new and of East and West — quintessentially Turkish for this very reason.

While there are different accounts as to how it received its name, Reyhan Corak, author of the book Cengelkoy, writes that the most reliable one is based on the story that following the conquest of Istanbul, sailboat hooks (cengel) were discovered in this small village (koy) which dated back to the reign of King Yanko Ibn Madyan, founder of Constantinople. In fact, hooks would continue to be produced here over the course of the Ottoman period.

Despite having grown significantly as of late, Cengelkoy continues to maintain the peace and security it has always been so well known for, with all the shop owners knowing one another. Also, like the village it used to be, it continues to be organised in such a way as to be self-sufficient, featuring a main road made up of stores — patisseries, restaurants, pharmacies, fish sellers, bakeries, and even a chocolatier — on both sides.

So if you have but one day and you would like to experience Istanbul in one of its purest, most authentic forms, among the Turkish people in their natural state and free from the inescapable crowds one would inevitably encounter at one of the city’s more typical tourist attractions, there is no better choice than to spend it walking through Cengelkoy…

A culinary adventure in Cengelkoy

There is one sound that will echo through the branches of the tall plane trees so characteristic of the Ottoman legacy, on any early morning along the main road of Cengelkoy: the soft melody of a Turkish teaspoon tapping the thin frame of a Turkish teacup. In front of any one of the small shops, you may spot an old man, alone or with a friend, sitting on a small wooden stool beside a small wooden table, legs crossed — typically moustached, wearing a tweed hat and humble loafers — serenely observing life with a calm smile on his face. While this may be one of the most common scenes in Türkiye, it is more revelatory than one might realise, for it reflects one of the most enduring qualities of the Turkish people. This is that no matter the number of uncertainties that may be troubling their minds, they have the unique ability to create pockets of joy in some of the most mundane of circumstances; they do this seamlessly, over a cup of tea or Turkish coffee, with or without company.

However, if you happen to have come for a visit on a Monday, this peace might be pleasantly disrupted by the excitement and commotion surrounding the marketplace. The smell of fresh strawberries no longer wafts from the hills curving through Cengelkoy and the older generation laments that the taste of today’s cucumbers pale in comparison to those of the past — for the fruits and vegetables sold at the marketplace are no longer cultivated in Cengelkoy’s once famously favourable soil. Nonetheless, the town’s Monday marketplace continues to be known for carrying some of the highest quality fruits and vegetables available in the entirety of Istanbul.

Walking along Cengelkoy’s main road, first stop by Peynirci Mehmet to get some “cevizli tulum” (tulum cheese with walnuts) and then onto Cengelkoy Yogurtcusu to grab some “taze kasar’’(fresh kashar cheese) and “pastirma” (cured beef), as well as some delicious green and black olives brought in from the Aegean region of Türkiye. Of course, Turkish cheese must be coupled with the country’s national bagel, the “simit,’’ which you will surely have smelled by now, for the scent of fresh bread and toasted sesame seeds emanating from the Tarihi Cengelkoy Firini permeates every corner of the road.

Established by an Armenian baker nearly two centuries ago, this landmark bakery is a breathtaking sight to witness during the wee hours of the night of the holy month of Ramadan, when people form long lines in childlike anticipation of some freshly cooked “Ramazan Pidesi” (a Turkish flat bread only baked during the holy month) to enjoy their sahoor with (pre-dawn meal during Ramadan). The small white board hanging on its external wall — called the “Ekmek Teknesi’’ — continues the Ottoman tradition of paying it forward, featuring an ongoing list of all the loaves of bread that have already been paid for by previous customers, waiting to be casually received by anyone who is having a low day. Once you have grabbed some of the simit and paid ‘forward’ for any number of other loaves you wish to, you’ll only need some tomatoes and cucumbers to enjoy the simplest, yet most cherished Turkish breakfast there is — and there is no better place to savour it than at a teahouse beneath a nearly 800-year-old plane tree, Cinaralti Cay Bahcesi.

While a recent study has convincingly argued this famous plane tree to be only a little over 300 years old, the sign writing it to be 770 years old, installed in 2001, has not been changed — nor has the spirit of onlookers who continue to sip tea beneath it in sheer awe of its grandeur, as they marvel at its 12-metre-long branches and its 6.6-metre-wide trunk . With Hamdullah Pasa Camii situated adjacent to it, playing any type of loud music within 100 metres of the small, quiet mosque is illegal, amplifying the teahouse’s tranquil atmosphere. The stray cats also contribute to this relaxing environment, though one cat particularly grabbed attention — perched on one of the tree’s massive branches, his chocolate brown and snow-white fur, so crisp and clean, glistened with the light coming through the branches. He often sauntered between the tea tables, exuding confidence, until he recently passed away.

However, this serenity — once a daily reality — has now become only possible during work hours on weekdays. In this regard, the older generation has a point when reminiscing upon the days when poets and writers would engage in deep conversations and find inspiration beneath the majestic tree. Nonetheless, both the tree and the teahouse surrounding it continue to bring together Turkish people from all walks of life. The freedom to bring any food you may wish to bring with you — though you must purchase drinks on site — also has a part to play in the teahouse’s popularity, making it an affordable choice for those families who would otherwise struggle to eat out.

So grab a seat — not figuratively, but rather quite literally — and be seated. Now is the time to order “sogus” (tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers drizzled with a little bit of olive oil) and some tea and enjoy them alongside the freshly baked simit, cheese and pastirma you have brought with you.

For lunch or dinner, the options are many, each one offering a different experience. The place is teeming with restaurants flanked on both sides of the main street. Among the quintessentially local dining spaces, only Bolu Ev Yemekleri, open since 1972, remains, with Ashana Ispir Kurufasulye and Kofteci Recep Usta no longer operational, thanks to rising rentals. Nonetheless, there are a variety of new restaurants offering different Turkish delicacies.

If you want to have a view of the Istanbul Strait while eating and try a wider array of options, Sutis, Inci Bosphorus and Yakamoz are all great options. Sutis and Inci Bosphorus are similar in that they both offer guests the experience of eating in an Ottoman waterside mansion, though the former presents a more authentic historical experience with murals on its walls and engravings on its ceilings, while the latter has a more modern ambience. If you are a lover of fish, Sen Balik might be exactly right for you. The restaurant’s steamed, stew-like fish (buglama) and salmon on skewers are local favourites, not to mention the hearty fish soup. If you aren’t after local delicacies or a view, but would rather mingle amongst the local youth, Barto’s Burger Place might be what you are looking for. Despite being a new eatery, it has acquired quite a following and credit be given where it is due, it is purely for the fact that they make delicious burgers. Recently the famous gourmet Vedat Milor’s review has propelled it even further with lines forming before the store being a constant. Their ribs, cheeseburgers and fries with truffled parmesan cheese will not disappoint.

For dessert, however, there is one destination worthy of the greatest esteem: the first patisserie in Cengelkoy, the beloved Seval (meaning “love it, take it”), known for making products from natural ingredients, free from the common corruption of artificial additives. Established in 1957 and the embodiment of a local Turkish shop at its best, its owners being kind, welcoming, humble, and purely focused on their craft, Seval offers desserts that are one of a kind. If one was forced to pick among the array of options Seval offers, “keskul” (an Ottoman almond pudding made from almond flour and milk) with a scoop of ice cream on top would undoubtedly be the obligatory choice. Their almond pudding and bitter-almond “acibadem” cookies are both made with the recipe used in the kitchens of the Topkapi Palace. Their flavours cannot be compared with those made by any others in Istanbul and attract people from all over the city. Their tahini, lemon and “kaymak” (thick clotted cream) ice creams must be tasted, though all are bound to surprise you with the fullness and potency of their flavours — and the flavours you couldn’t make room for while seated can blissfully accompany you while you walk, giving you a sense of childlike joy as you stroll along Cengelkoy’s picturesque shoreline. Before leaving, however, you must, of course, package some of Seval’s famous macaroons, bitter-almond cookies, and Turkish brittle for yourself to enjoy at a later date or as gifts for your loved ones.

Before heading out on your walk along the shore or upon your return from it, your last stop must be Cengelkoy Baharatcisi, where you will arguably find some of the highest quality nuts, dried fruits, and teas. From walnuts, hazelnuts, and “bozic” (unroasted, raw pistachio nuts — yes, the ones used in Turkish baklava), to dates, dried apricots, and mountain figs, to the rose petals and jasmine pearls, the shop contains an assortment of good that cannot be missed. Not only will they remind you of your memorable trip to Cengelkoy, but they will also make for beautiful gifts. Cikolata & Kahve — serving hand-crafted chocolates and traditional Turkish coffee, as well as hot chocolate bound to bring anyone who tries it back to their childhood — also offers great gift options.

As you embark on your stroll along the shoreline of Cengelkoy, you will see many different mansions, some beautifully kept, some worn down and seemingly forgotten. Each has a story, some of tragedy, others of promise. Yet each remains standing. As the soft breeze rustles the leaves of the plane trees and the scent of the sea draws you nearer to the shore with each step, there is one spot that your walk must lead you to: one special spot, beneath a seemingly ordinary tree where you can watch the beautiful sunset, piercing through the rods of the bridge, cutting through the clouds and creating an orange, pink-like hue, the glass of the skyscrapers reflecting over the ocean like shards of coloured glass over the blue waves.

To your left, a bridge; to your right, the supremely lit Kuleli Askeri Lisesi; and right in front of you, the ferries sailing back and forth all while the waves crash onto the stones… This breathtaking scene will be a fleeting one though; the dance of the colours will last no longer than a minute. Nonetheless, you will wholeheartedly be willing to bear the cost of the temporary nature of this blissful sunset rather than not experiencing it at all.

After experiencing so many moments that have left lasting impressions, you will be able to revisit your memories of Cengelkoy forever. And, so, a day has ended; a new one awaits.

Up next: the stories Cengelkoy’s historical monuments would share, if only they could speak.