10 Muharram: When the sweet smell of Ashura emanates from Turkish kitchens

The legend of Ashura unfolds in the annals of history, a tale shrouded in the mists of time. The lore says a Divine decision was revealed to Prophet Noah that directed him to embark on an extraordinary journey. Noah was ordered to build a massive ark where God’s devout believers could take refuge and survive the impending disaster.

Following the angelic summons, the ethereal Angel Gabriel descended from the heavens to assist the pious Noah. They worked tirelessly together to build the towering ark, an awe-inspiring marvel of craftsmanship that would defy the oceans and heavy storms.

As months pass and the storm calms down, everyone aboard the ark survives. Noah's ark stops at Mount Judi, a sacred spot that is honoured until today. The last day of Noah's journey marks the 10th of Muharram.

After days of braving the storm, the food supplies on the ark had depleted. Now ashore on Mount Judi, the passengers cooked a feast with whatever supplies were left and shared the food with each other.

An integral part of Turkish cuisine

Ashura holds a significant place in modern Turkish culinary culture. Every year, when the month of Ashura begins, the tradition is carried out, particularly in Anatolia.

A dessert named Ashura, which is made with 41 different components, is served to neighbours.

Ashura plays an important role in forging community bonds and human connections. While other materials and procedures can be used to prepare this dish in modern times, there is a strong desire for retaining its original taste.

The central ingredient is wheat, which is then complemented with dried beans, chickpeas, dried apricots, walnuts, almonds, figs, seedless raisins, water, granulated sugar, orange peel and rose water. And for decoration, materials such as cinnamon, pomegranate seeds, walnut kernels, hazelnuts, pistachios, cloves, nutmeg and chopped orange peel are used.

The Ashura recipe and cooking style can vary from place to place. In some regions, products such as chestnuts, broad beans, pine nuts, sesame, peanuts, hazelnuts, milk, rose water, currants, and vanilla are placed next to the main ingredient – wheat.

Method

All the add-on ingredients for cooking an Ashura meal should be used in a perfect balance. The overuse of one ingredient can ruin its taste. It should neither be too sweet, nor too bland. The smell of cinnamon should not be overwhelming either. The colour should be off-white and texture grainy.

Each cup of Ashura should be decorated just a few minutes ahead of serving it. Colourants such as figs and pomegranates are added at last so that its colour is not altered aggressively.

For Ashura, almonds have to be peeled before putting them into the pot since unpeeled ones tend to change the colour of any milk or flour based recipe. Ashure dessert is served hot or cold, according to one's preference.

A centuries-old tradition

Ashura was also cooked in the Ottoman palaces. Starting from 10th Muharram, it was distributed amongst courtiers, palace nobles and the general public in special containers called “Ashura jugs”.

In the Anatolia region, wealthy families and tradesmen cooked and served Ashura with much fanfare – large ceremonies were hosted where animal sacrifices were made after the distribution of the special dessert.

Ashura also has a political aspect in the history of Islam. After Prophet Mohamad’s grandson Hussein's martyrdom in Karbala on 10 Muharram 680 AD, the day has also been a day of mourning for Muslims.

After the conquest of Istanbul on May 29 1453, cooking Ashura meals became a tradition in the city soon after Turks began to cook it out of the Sunbul Efendi Tekkesi in Fatih district. The tradition continues as Ashura is still cooked at the same venue for the martyrs of Karbala.

In the ceremony organised by the Insan and Irfan Foundation, as it is held every year, Ashura, which was cooked throughout the day, was offered to the residents and guests of the neighbourhood. With this tradition going on for five centuries, the dessert was delivered to five thousand people this year.

“Societies without ceremonies and such organisations cannot transfer their civilizations and cultures to new generations. Due to this ceremony, many people from different groups gathered here. Not only did the different contents in the Ashura come together, but also people with different opinions came here on this occasion,” Fatih Citlak, the chairman of the Insan and Irfan Foundation, told TRT World.