Cultural sanctuary: Syria's Al-Rawda Cafe experiences a joyful rebirth
The historic meeting point for intellectuals finds new life in a post-Assad liberated Damascus.
In the heart of Damascus, an old cafe that once whispered secrets about freedom under the watchful eyes of government informants, is now alive with revolutionary songs and political debates, as is the whole country.
After surviving decades of oppression and conflict, Al-Rawda Cafe has reemerged as a symbol of hope in post-Assad Syria. “The place has finally breathed a sigh of relief,” said Ahmed Kozorosh, the cafe’s owner.
Founded in 1938, Al-Rawda has a storied past as a haven for intellectuals, activists and opposition figures. It played a pivotal role in the years following Syria’s independence and leading up to Hafez al Assad’s authoritarian reign.
“Security apparatus had for long suffocated this place and its intellectual clientele through scrutiny from the regime and its informants,” he told TRT World.
When al Assad seized power in 1970 through a coup, followed by his son Bashar’s brutal rule, Syria was plunged into an era of pervasive fear. The regime’s labyrinth of security agencies silenced dissent, forcing many intellectuals to flee or endure persecution and torture. Those who remained were shadowed by informants, and even Al-Rawda’s vibrant conversations were muted under the weight of surveillance.
But since the collapse of the Assad regime, Syria has sprung into a long-lost sense of liberty. At Al-Rawda, this transformation is palpable. Each evening, the cafe comes alive with revolutionary songs, heated political debates, or homecoming parties for opposition figures returning to Damascus after years in exile.
Visitors include prominent figures such as Majd Jadaan, Assad’s sister-in-law and a fierce critic of the regime, and Riad Saf, a former businessman and parliamentarian who served prison time for his dissent.
The cafe’s rebirth as a hub of political and cultural engagement reflects the resilience of a nation determined to reclaim its identity.
Suspicion and surveillance
Nestled in central Damascus, Al-Rawda spans 750 square metres, its design evoking traditional Damascene homes. With an affordable menu and a location near key landmarks, the cafe has long drawn an eclectic mix of patrons. Over the years, it welcomed notable figures such as a young Saddam Hussein, Syrian poet Adonis, writer Muhammad al Maghout, and opposition figures Michel Kilo and Fayez Sara.
Each evening, the cafe comes alive with revolutionary songs and heated political debates (Boulous al-Hallaq).
Journalists, too, were frequent visitors. Cultural affairs specialist Badih Sanij remembers Al-Rawda as “the space to meet colleagues and discuss new topics”. He recalls that before the war, the cafe was a place of connection, often hosting hordes of journalists holding “mini-seminars”— discussing the latest news and events with anyone sitting on the tables nearby.
Despite its doors remaining open during the Syrian Civil War that began in 2011, the cafe lost much of its cultural significance—and clientele. Surveillance intensified, with government informants blending into the crowd, and arrests became a constant threat.
Kozorosh recalls the pervasive fear: “People felt they could be arrested here for doing nothing. There were so many informants that you couldn’t tell who was a regular customer and who was spying.”
The war’s socio-economic toll also hit Al-Rawda hard. The 14-year conflict depleted the country’s coffers, destroyed its resources and brought heavy sanctions onto the regime and its agencies. Meanwhile, Syrians struggled with rocket-high inflation rates, a plummeting local currency and hunger.
According to UN figures, the humanitarian situation in Syria “remains critical”: around 15 million Syrians require health services, and 13 million - more than half the population - face acute food insecurity. Less disposable income meant fewer customers visited Al-Rawda.
Regretting how the cafe’s atmosphere changed during the war years, Sanij lamented the loss of its cultural spirit. "It became a place for playing cards and smoking hookah. Meetings between friends also became rare due to the difficult security situation, distance, and the rising cost of living."
Founded in 1938, the Al-Rawda cafe has reopened as the hub of political and cultural engagement it was once known for (Boulous al-Hallaq).
Nevertheless, some regulars remained loyal despite the danger. “During the war, Al-Rawda became the only place where those who stayed in the country could still come together at a cultural level,” said journalist and researcher Yarab Al-Essa, who has been frequenting the cafe for more than 30 years.
A new beginning
Today, with the return of expatriates, Al-Rawda Cafe has reclaimed its place as a cultural sanctuary. “It’s the destination where Syrians would unexpectedly run into old acquaintances, even without a prior appointment. It transformed into an informal meeting point, drawing people together spontaneously,” Al-Essa said fondly.
The cafe’s renewed activity is part of a broader cultural resurgence in Damascus. Historically, the city has been renowned for its cafes, boasting more than 100 during the 19th century, notes Naaman Qassatli in his book The Book of the Singing Garden in Damascus the Bountiful. Al-Rawda’s revival is a symbol of that lost tradition.
Kozorosh tries to capitalise on this cultural rebirth of his home country, by offering the space for free to grassroot projects, like activist Paul al-Hallaq’s Our Beginning Initiative.
“We chose Al-Rawda for several reasons: its central location, its reputation, and its diverse clientele. Additionally, the cafe’s large windows facing the street make it highly visible, drawing in curious passersby,” al-Hallaq explained.Al-Rawda owner Ahmed Kozorosh offers space for free to grassroot projects (Boulous al-Hallaq).
For journalist and researcher Al-Essa, Al-Rawda’s renewed activity comes as no surprise. “It is a continuation of the subtle movements that had emerged before the fall of Assad—movements that have now been revived with the country’s liberation,” he said.
“Even during dangerous times, the cafe played a vital role in bringing people together, so its revival is well-deserved."
This piece was published in collaboration with Egab.