Jerusalem's Christmas spirit dimmed amid Gaza war, plunging tourism

JERUSALEM – For hundreds of years, Jerusalem's alleys would come alive in the days before Christmas. There would be carols and a rush of shoppers in the Old City, and visitors would gather from around the world to celebrate the birth of Christ in the festive season.

But for the second year in a row, the atmosphere is hushed and sad, as the war on Palestine's Gaza continues to reap lives and cause unspeakable destruction.

Like last year, all holiday-related activities outside of prayer, such as the annual Christmas bazaar near the New Gate or parties and gatherings, have been cancelled. Families say they will restrict the celebration to eating a simple meal and attending Mass.

However, Father Theophilus Al-Orshalimi, secretary of the Coptic Orthodox Archdiocese in Jerusalem, stressed that despite the absence of traditional displays, it remains necessary to preserve the Christian presence in the city.

"We insist on celebrating with prayers to assert our presence here in the face of all challenges. Christians in Jerusalem must affirm their attachment to this land, the birthplace of Christianity,” he tells TRT World.

Maintaining such prayers is a form of resistance, he adds.

“The situation in Jerusalem today is different from any other time. Canceling major celebrations is a natural response to what is happening in Gaza,” he says.

Pope's support

Key Christian leaders have been speaking out about Gaza, including Pope Francis, who raised controversy this holiday season after unveiling a unique Nativity scene in the Vatican ahead of Christmas celebrations.

Crafted by Palestinian artists from Bethlehem, the scene shows Mary, Joseph and Jesus carved out of olive tree wood, a tree deeply associated with Palestinians.

The crib of Jesus was also lined with a Palestinian keffiyeh, the black and white scarf widely interpreted as a symbol of resistance against the Israeli occupation.

The installation caused backlash earlier this month, and within days, the keffiyeh was removed. However, the Pope remains vocal about Israel's war on Gaza and continues to call for a ceasefire.

Shrinking group

Christians in Jerusalem, the birthplace of Jesus, comprise a small percentage of the city's total population of 1 million - around 12,000 to 15,000 people, most of them Palestinian.

A century ago, Christians accounted for at least 10 percent, but that number shrunk due to many leaving following Israel's occupation of Palestine.

An essential part of the city's social fabric, the Christian community faces significant challenges due to the Israeli occupation. These include restrictions on freedom of movement, particularly regarding access to holy sites in the Old City during religious holidays.

They also face difficulties obtaining residence and work permits within the city, which has contributed to mass emigration from Jerusalem. This has made it difficult to maintain their permanent presence in the city.

In recent years, an increase in anti-Christian attacks led by right-wing Jewish groups in Israel prompted the United Nations Security Council to introduce the term Christianophobia in 2023.

Many Christians say they have trouble accessing basic services like education and healthcare, a reflection of the broader challenges faced by Palestinians in Jerusalem.

Sombre mood

Israel's war on Gaza, which started in October 2023 and killed over 45,000 mostly women and children, has left Jerusalem bleak and tense.

"We face a continuous struggle by the occupation that seeks to change the city's identity, but our faith and presence here is constant. We must also remind people of the Christmas message that must stay alive in everyone's hearts, regardless of difficult circumstances,” Al-Orshalimi says.

Marianne Khouri, a Christian Jerusalemite who works at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, says the holidays have lost their taste and flavour in the past two years.

“The markets used to be crowded, there were decorations, and a Christmas tree full of lights. Today, everything has changed, the holiday has lost its spirit,” she tells TRT World.

The war in Gaza and the rampant destruction in the region have completely altered the Christmas atmosphere in Jerusalem, Khouri adds.

“The sadness felt throughout the Holy City is not only because of the war and destruction in Gaza, but also because of the economic difficulties Jerusalem families are facing. The absence of tourists has impacted many families who depend on this season, so it has become difficult to maintain the same festive atmosphere," she says.

Declining tourism

Statistics show that since the war on Gaza started in October 2023, international tourist travel to Jerusalem has significantly diminished. Foreign airlines reduced their flight frequencies and even paused services.

Between November 2023 and February 2024, no American carriers flew to Israel. In 2023, over 3.2 million people visited the country, but between January and September of this year, that number went down to just over 750,000.

The slump is felt significantly by hotel and shop owners in the Old City.

Ghassan Yahya Atiyeh, the owner of a shop called "Sanctuary", tells TRT World that the tourism situation is very difficult.

"After the Israeli offensive on Gaza, it has declined by a very large percentage," he said, adding that foreign tourists have dwindled because of flight cancellations, which has impacted the entire sector.

"It is as if there is a curfew in the Old City. The whole area is empty all day. The economy is destroyed," he lamented.

To mark the Christmas season, patriarchs and church leaders in Jerusalem recently issued a joint statement condemning Israel's war on Gaza and affirming their position and demands.

The statement emphasised that maintaining prayers is important to preserve the Christian presence in the Holy Land. Church leaders also renewed their call for a ceasefire in Gaza and the need to rebuild what the war has destroyed, while demanding the release of Palestinian prisoners and detainees.

The clergymen also demanded relief for the displaced and wounded in Gaza, urging the international community to "achieve justice and peace" in the region, reaffirming that Christmas is a "symbol of hope for the future," and calling on Christians worldwide to unite in prayer for peace in this Holy Land.

A message from Jerusalem to Gaza

While Christians in Jerusalem face significant challenges, residents of Gaza are experiencing immeasurable tragedies, Khouri says.

“The people of Gaza are in our hearts and prayers," she says, adding that Christmas is not about lights and decorations, but is a message of peace and hope.

Echoing the words of Al-Orshalimi, Khouri says that even if someone is martyred, they will remain a beacon for future generations. “Those with a righteous cause must remain steadfast in their place."

Urging Gaza's Christians to remain resilient and not surrender, church leaders said that this year's holiday represents a "greater challenge, but also an affirmation of hope in the face of darkness."

"Even in art, there is shadow and light, and the darker our lives become, the more the bright side must exist within us," says Al-Orshalimi.

"Our presence here in Jerusalem is a living testimony to Christ's message, and we continue to pray and work for peace," the statement said.

“Christmas in Jerusalem in 2024 may be different, but its message remains the same: light in darkness, and hope in a time of despair.”

The article was published in collaboration with Egab.