Tears, determination and loss: Palestinians return to devastated north Gaza

As thousands journey back to the ruins of their homes after months of displacement, joy and heartbreak intertwine in the shadow of war.

Thousands of displaced Palestinians journeyed back to north Gaza on foot this week, returning to the ruins of their homes and the land they refuse to abandon (Ansam Elkattaa).
Others

Thousands of displaced Palestinians journeyed back to north Gaza on foot this week, returning to the ruins of their homes and the land they refuse to abandon (Ansam Elkattaa).

At dawn on Monday, thousands of Palestinians streamed along the coastal Al-Rashid Street returning to north Gaza. Their backs bent over by the weight of displacement, fatigue from the journey, and the few belongings they were able to carry.

This week, after over a year of displacement, they returned to the remnants of their homes, most of which have been reduced to rubble by Israeli shelling since the war began on October 7, 2023.

On the northern side of Wadi Gaza, crowds eagerly awaited their loved ones arriving from the south, where many had been forcibly evacuated. As the two crowds merged, an overwhelming tide of emotion swept through the streets. Families embraced in tearful reunions, the air bellowed with Eid chants, and Palestinian flags waved high above the destruction.

Amidst the rubble of shattered homes and streets, hope remained steadfast, defying everything.

“I can’t believe I’m finally back in Gaza. I’ve been waiting for this day for more than a year,” said 20-year-old Hala Abdel Aal, her face radiant with a smile as she held tightly onto the hands of cousins who had remained behind. Forced southward a year ago, Abdel Aal, like many other residents of the territory, feared her displacement might become permanent after learning of some Israeli settlers plans to build homes and occupy Gaza.

“Today, our dream of returning to Gaza has come true. Despite the destruction that has erased the city’s landscape, it remains the most beautiful and beloved place to us. We will rebuild it with our own hands,” she added with determination.

The return of thousands of displaced Palestinians to the northern parts of the Gaza strip was scheduled to begin on Sunday as part of a fragile ceasefire agreement. Under its terms, Hamas released the second group of Israeli hostages. But Israel then demanded the release of a fourth female hostage, holding off the Gazans’ return to their homes until Monday.

Crowds had been gathering at the Netzarim Junction, which divides the northern and southern parts of Gaza, for days eager to get back. The wait was long and the journey was arduous, said Abdel Aal, but the joy of returning home made the exhaustion bearable.

Others

Families carried their belongings, returning to the ruins of their destroyed homes and buildingscease (Ansam Elkattaa).

“We lost our house, but we feel a sense of peace now that we’re here. We left our tent in the south and will set up another one on the rubble of our home. Just being on our land gives us comfort and happiness,” she told TRT World.

The longest journey

Despite the long distance and the demolished roads, most returnees opted to walk due to the scarcity and high cost of transportation. Walking also ensured they could return the same day without delays caused by vehicle inspections at checkpoints. According to the ceasefire agreement, vehicles passing through the Salah Al-Din Street checkpoint must undergo security scans using X-ray machines, a process that significantly slows the crossing.

Fifty-year-old Ataf Al-Saada, who started her journey at dawn, endured the long trek. Upon crossing the Netzarim Junction, she exclaimed with a mix of disbelief and elation, “Oh my God, am I dreaming or is this real? Someone tell me if I’m dreaming!”

Sitting down briefly on a rock to catch her breath, she continued, “I left Deir Al-Balah at 4 am and have been walking ever since,” she told TRT World. Al-Saada had fled her home in Gaza City’s Shujaieya district very early on in the war, while her daughter remained in the besieged city. “It took more than seven hours, but the longing to see my daughter again was worth every step,” said the jubilant mother, who still had more hours to walk to get to where her house is.

Others

Laden with all they could carry, families returned to search for the loved ones they had been forced to leave behind (Ansam Elkattaa).

Others faced even greater challenges. On crutches, Ali Bakr made his way to Gaza City on foot, despite a severe injury to his right leg that required a platinum rod. The injury, sustained during an airstrike on one of his displacement shelters, causes him immense pain. Yet Bakr’s determination to return home was unshakable.

“Our joy is indescribable; this is the greatest day of my life,” Bakr said, hopping on his good leg with the help of the clutches. His journey from Khan Younis to Gaza City spanned hundreds of kilometres, taking him through Nuseirat.

“I’ve endured enough suffering. Words cannot capture the agony and hardship we experienced during displacement. Today, we’re finally back in our beloved Gaza City,” he said, smiling through his exhaustion. Inhaling deeply, he added “There is nothing I don’t miss about this city.”

Heartbreak amid joy

Despite the endless destruction, returnees showed no remorse of returning, clinging on to their right to reclaim their land.

Abdullah Mahmoud, a young man who resisted evacuation for months, recounted how he refused to leave Gaza City despite repeated Israeli forces’ warnings to people to hear south. “But one day, while trying to get a bag of flour from the dangerous Nablusi Roundabout area, the tanks encircled me,” he recalled.

Beaten, he was then forced to cross over to the south in July. “Not a minute passed without me wishing I had died of hunger rather than leave beloved Gaza City. Today, I feel as though I’ve been reborn,” he said.

The day was more painful, then merry, for some.

Standing among the crowds, Umm Ahmad, a mother in her fifties, reflected deep concern as she awaited her son’s arrival from the south. “I have not seen him for 15 months. He was supposed to be here today,” she said, her anxious eyes scanned the faces of the arriving returnees. Poor phone signals, a result of Israel’s strategic communication jamming, frustrated her repeated attempts to contact him.

For others, like Yara Al-Joju, the day was bittersweet. Her 10-year-old brother Waseem, who had been battling cancer, had long dreamt of returning to Gaza, she said. “Sadly, he passed away a month ago before he could see this day. I wish he were here to share in this overwhelming joy,” she said, her eyes welling up with tears.

As the crowds kept spilling into north Gaza, the pale faces of the returnees spoke volumes. Each person carried their own tale of suffering.

Jawad Mohammad, his voice heavy with sorrow, shared his grief. Having been displaced in Deir el Balah, he wishes the ceasefire happened only weeks earlier. “My mother passed away a month ago. I didn’t get the chance to bid her farewell or give her one last kiss. Her final wish was to embrace me again before she died, but fate was against us.”

Choking back tears, he continued, “If only we could have returned earlier. Now all I can do is visit her grave here in Gaza City, and tell her how much I miss her.”

This piece was published in collaboration with Egab.

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