Hajj memoirs as a cornerstone of Turkish identity & culture

As a child, I cherished moments spent listening to my grandparents' Hajj stories. The stories painted a vivid picture of their sacred journey to Mecca, much like gazing at ancient snapshots through a 3D view-master. Documenting these family heritage journeys has always been a heartfelt desire of mine.

The following memory comes from my grandfather, a muezzin from Kasımpasa in Istanbul, who served as a Hajj officer in 1985. The pilgrimage commenced from Eyupsultan by bus.

When a fellow pilgrim fell ill in the Karbala desert, my grandfather stayed by his side while others continued. Tragically, the ailing pilgrim passed away in Karbala, and my grandfather was forced to hitchhike, crossing the desert in a pickup truck with the deceased pilgrim. Upon reaching Baghdad, he contacted the officials at the Turkish Embassy, and consular officials coordinated his burial near the Abu Hanifa Mosque.

The Hajj journey, known for its challenges, echoes the tradition of the Prophet Muhammad, who prayed for a smooth path before embarking. My grandfather, too, sought divine assistance. He hitchhiked to Mecca, rejoining the caravan, and upon returning to Türkiye, he located the family of the deceased pilgrim in Iraq, delivering his belongings.

Summoned for collecting hajj memories

During the COVID-19 pandemic, Fatih Ketanci, owner of Hajj Memories' X account, inspired me to share my granddad's story as we revisited our family albums at home.

Ketanci is a passionate documentary producer. Driven by his transformative journey to Mecca, he has collected Hajj-related items from Türkiye for six years.

“As I collected pictures featuring Mecca and Medina, my interest in forming a Hajj collection grew. I delved into memoirs of Hajj journeys, learning more about those voyages. Türkiye didn't allow Hajj pilgrimages until 1947, the permission granted to 7,000 people in 1947 ignited my curiosity to gather memories from that prohibited period," Ketanci tells TRT World about his inspiration.

In 2020, Ketanci shared his collection through the @HacHatirasi X account after finding a Hajj memory album in Ankara's Iskit district, aiming to reach a wider audience and collect Hajj memory stories through social media.

The role of hajj in shaping Turkish identity

Turkish people deeply revere the Kaaba and Masjid al Nabawi. They frequently use the term "haji" to refer to those who have undertaken the pilgrimage and often engrave "haji" on the tombstones of deceased Turks who completed this sacred journey.

Ketanci added, "Upon my return from the Hajj while perusing an antique market, I encountered numerous vintage prints of Mecca and Medina. Notably, I observed that Turkish people held profound reverence for depictions of the Kaaba and abstained from keeping images of it lower than their abdomen as a mark of respect. This display of care deeply moved me and served as the impetus for my aspiration to curate an exhibition centred around Hajj artefacts and memories in the forthcoming future."

Consequently, the memories of Hajj establish a significant connection to the shared history and culture of the Turkish people. These memories also create striking parallels between the Holy City of Makkah and Türkiye.

Dr Yahya Nurgat, who completed a PhD at the University of Cambridge on the history of the Hajj in the Ottoman Empire, provides insight into Hajj memories and their influence on Turkish Muslim identities: “The subject of Turkish Muslim identities has been the focus of entire academic monographs. People are deeply interested in understanding the uniqueness of Turkish Muslims, their practices, beliefs, and how political contexts impact their identities.”

Hajj, though underexplored, provides valuable insights into the identities and experiences of Turkish Muslims. Examining contemporary Turkish Hajj experiences offers a unique chance to document people's emotions and values, making the Hajj a rich source of information.

Hajj is a dual pilgrimage, serving as a journey of self-discovery.

Ketanci explained his experience: "Through my collection, I have heard the Hajj memories of the people I've met, and I realised how significant this matter is to them and their immense reverence for Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him). For me, it was a subject I knew about but had yet to delve into the details."

Heritage passed from generation to generation

Ketanci's collection preserves Hajj memories and objects, vital for passing Turkish history and culture to future generations. It safeguards these collective memories from fading away, emphasising the changing nature of the Hajj journey. This journey not only connects modern Turks with their historical roots but also rekindles the interrupted historical and cultural link between Turks and the Islamic world.

The emotional significance of the Turkish flag during the Hajj and the evolving interactions of Turkish pilgrims with Mecca and Medina artefacts offer valuable data for anthropologists, shedding light on the changing social impacts of the Hajj over time. In essence, Ketanci's collection highlights the lasting importance of Hajj memories in preserving Turkish heritage and history while providing insights into cultural transformations associated with the pilgrimage.

Ketanci expresses his feelings: “In the past, people undertook a long journey to reach Hajj. Now, it's possible to reach Mecca in just a few hours; preparing for this journey used to be a thirty to forty-year process. Also, going to Hajj had a vital significance in the past. It was the only place Turks made contact with the Islamic world during the early Republican era. In historical accounts dating back to 1947, numerous individuals documented a poignant occurrence at the Jeddah Islamic Seaport. Upon sighting the Turkish flag adorning a vessel belonging to a Turkish haji, the local populace of Jeddah was moved to tears. This profound emotional response can be attributed to the significant historical mission undertaken by the Turkish community in the region."

Social and cultural impacts

The 16th century saw a significant historical moment when the Ottoman Empire defeated the Mamluk Sultanate, gaining control over the administration of the Hajj, Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem. Before this event, Ottoman subjects had already been undertaking the Hajj, but the conquest further popularised it, including in regions that constitute modern Türkiye.

Until this period, various Hajj traditions have reached today. Examples include the collection of souvenirs and artefacts and cultural practices such as pilgrims painting their doors a specific colour, often green, and drawing the Turkish flag upon their entry, and the custom of offering special meals after returning from the Hajj.

In Nurgat's view, contemporary Turkish Hajj practices are an extension of these historical Ottoman practices despite the cultural shifts introduced by the Turkish Republic. These traditions have managed to endure and persist over time.

Ketanci shared Turkish Hajj traditions: “Türkiye has numerous Hajj traditions that have faded over time. We learn about these traditions through memoirs, stories, and conversations with people. For example, along the route from Kilis to Diyarbakır in the Southeast, some house gates illustrate that the household is haji, where they put a sign, paint, or display a picture of the Kaaba when they return from Hajj. This tradition is incredibly vibrant in Urfa. This tradition has arrived in Türkiye from Egypt, Jerusalem, and Damascus. In other places, there are different expressions of it. Along this route, you may typically see wall decorations or signs and those returning from Hajj.”

In the 1950s, Ketanci described a prevalent Hajj tradition in Bursa. "When someone goes on Hajj, they bring the same attire for everyone, and upon their return, they celebrate for a week at home. Like in many places, those who have completed Hajj set up a table to place their silverware, Zamzam water, dates, and precious gifts from Hajj, celebrating their return festively. The importance of Turks to the holy land also influences funeral traditions. People often use a part of the Kiswah brought by the Haji to cover the deceased. Additionally, they seal Zamzam water in particular bottles, and at the moment of passing, they pierce the bottle's cap to pour Zamzam water onto the lips of the one on the deathbed.”

Ketanci emphasised that all these traditions are closely connected to the Turks through Hajj.

Nurgat explained the significance of Hajj for Turks. "I believe that Hajj culture has displayed remarkable resilience. Despite being essentially prohibited for a couple of decades following the establishment of the Turkish Republic, thousands of Muslims continued to undertake the Hajj in 1947. This resilience can be attributed to the central role of the Hajj in Ottoman culture, encompassing literary, visual, and material aspects. This prominent position of the Hajj in Ottoman culture certainly contributes to the resilience observed in the modern era, explaining why the Hajj remains popular even today."

Distinctive Hajj Memories

Ketanci delves into personal Hajj narratives, emphasising the power of these stories in rediscovering often overlooked, time-forgotten intricacies.

Ketanci's collection features unique photographs taken in the Alexandria Port of people embarking on a Hajj journey when the restrictions were first lifted in 1947.

He recounts his fascinating story of discovering the Hajj album. “The incident began on a cold winter day in Ankara at a flea market, where I stumbled upon a vintage photo album depicting images of the Kaaba from the Ottoman era. When I tried to purchase the album with Kaaba images, I realised someone had already bought it before me. I explained to the person who had purchased it that I collected Hajj memorabilia and managed to acquire the album from them.

Upon opening the album, I discovered it contained photographs and postcards narrating a Hajj pilgrimage to Mecca. These images were from the journey of Cemalettin Erdogan Arı and his wife, Kezban, who had embarked on their Hajj journey from Ankara in 1978. They meticulously documented every detail of their voyage. They prepared the album with such attention to detail that they even collected beautiful photographs of desert flowers during their Hajj voyage. Regrettably, the album was stolen during transit and ended up at a flea market, going unnoticed by anyone.

I shared the discovery on social media, which led the album's rightful owners to contact me. Although I had intended to return the album to them as a gift, the family generously insisted on gifting it to me. Therefore, this incident has likely been one of the most intriguing and extraordinary discovery adventures I've ever experienced.”

Ketanci discovered another unique addition to his collection at an antique shop in Konya - a picture of the Masjid al-Haram. Upon finding the photograph, he realised that Ali Ulvi Kurucu had given that print to someone else. Although the recipient of the image wasn't mentioned, it made him feel like it had been given to him.

"Ali Ulvi Kurucu is a great poet and a precious person to us. In the late 1930s, he relocated to Medina with his family. He held the position of director at the libraries of Mahmudiye, which were constructed by Mahmud (1953-1975) and Şeyhülislâm Arif Hikmet Bey in Medina (1975-1985), and he retired from this role. He was laid to rest in 2002 at Jannat Al Baqi cemetery," Ketanci expressed his emotions TRT World.

Historical Ties

The Mahmudiye Library is one of the many structures constructed by the Ottoman Empire in Mecca and Medina. For instance, the Hijaz Railway project, envisioned by Sultan Abdulhamid II to connect Istanbul with Medina and Mecca, continues to evoke a sense of fascination among the Turkish people. These cherished memories establish a profound connection between the hearts of Turks and the holy city of Mecca.

Nurgat explained the Ottoman influence on the Hajj in Mecca: “Undoubtedly, the Hajj transformed as the Ottomans undertook the development of pilgrimage infrastructure. Their public building in Mecca and Medina impacted the experience of pilgrims in Mecca and Medina.”

Ketanci highlighted the connection between sacred relics and Türkiye. Istanbul's great fortune lies in possessing sacred relics belonging to Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him), which hold immense importance. The Blessed Mantle (Hırka-i Şerif) in Fatih and the Holy Mantle (Hırka-i Saadet) in Topkapi Palace signify the significance that Turks attribute to Mecca.

Nurgat explained the relationship between Hajj and Ottoman collections. "Ottoman collections in museums such as the Topkapi Palace Museum, Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts in Sultan Ahmed, and the Museum of Islamic Civilizations in the Camlica Mosque Complex have a massive role in popular Muslim culture in Türkiye. For example, many Muslim households and businesses have images of these relics displayed in their homes. And they are hugely connected with Hajj because these items come from Mecca and Medina. They are connected to Ottoman rule in the Holy cities.

“When you visit the museums, the collections are displayed alongside objects related to the Hajj, such as the coverings of the Prophet's tomb and the coverings of the Black Stone, among others. So, Turkish Muslims have already connected with these objects and relics before their journey to Mecca. This infuses their experience with additional meaning. Therefore, these artefacts hold great significance,” Nurgat tells TRT World.

The Route of Turkish Haji

The Hajj holds the utmost significance in the lives of the Turkish people. Historically, travellers left their villages to undertake this pilgrimage after diligently saving money for years and disciplining their souls.

This journey typically commences from cities such as Istanbul or Ankara and proceeds through Karaman or Konya, with necessary stops at Tarsus and Urfa. Hajj candidates wear traditional costumes and memorable pictures in these cities, including Mecca and Medina.

This demanding journey represents an anticipated experience and is considered the zenith of life. Furthermore, pilgrims enhance their spirituality by visiting various spiritual leaders and holy sites. This pilgrimage symbolises both a physical journey and a spiritual voyage of discovery.

Exploring the Future of Hajj

As we look to the future, Ketanci's forthcoming exhibition promises to introduce the sacred pilgrimage and Turkish religious culture to a broader audience.

Meanwhile, in 2024, anticipation grows among Turkish Hajj candidates, as the Diyanet Presidency prepares to unveil the results of the Hajj lottery. Once again, pilgrims will embark on their sacred journey, continuing the timeless tradition that unites hearts and souls.